1924-08-09 — Page 11

HATURDAY AUGUST 9, ́ 1924,

THE CHINA MAIL.

THE BOB

THE MIDSUMMERHAT and THE

ARICURE

HAT.O cartoo FABRIC AND CHESTILLE

BARGARH WINSLOW

Modes of the Moment.

TT is possible, at this time, to put ono's Bingor on certain definite modes. Just what these fashions ara will bò of interest to the woman who would keep her wardrobe up-to-date. The all- dressed woman is wearing

Flannel-in, either a costume xust; a one-piece track; a skirt and blouse or a cont. Emphasis is placed on white flannel, and every garment made of thin materini, is meticulously tailored, the fabric being pre-shrunk. With the flannel costumo goes the cloche, or turban of felt, charming for either town or sports wear! Brinis are, in nimiy of the models, adjustable, so that they may be worn either turned up or turned down.

Homespun;

hop-packing; choviut; alpace; iricolette and stockinette-in coats and wraps, either in white op the smart sports colours. They are, in many Instances, trimmed with har monizing summer furs-ermine, fax, squirrel, grisette or, weasel. Whito hamespun sports attire-couts, Avits and wrap skirita-is the vogue of tho hour.

Batiste-in fins, hand-made vrider- things, every stitch set by hand, and the dainty garments trimmed with real inccs. Colours aro white or, tho "blossom" ahadee--petal pink. jonquil. yellow, and their kind.

Chiffon-in afternoon, dance and dinner fracks--both in the city and at the resorts. They are flounced, pleated all over, trimmed or combined with lace; and the decorative note is struck with brilliants; bends; buttons; buckles and ribbons.

Silkeroposin daytime dresses--for sports; streot; afternoon or Country Club wenr. Powder blue;. citron yellow; by red; Titian sand; banana; navy cr blackt; and white are tho colours favoured. Printed crepes; tub wilka; Tuah silks and Chinta-for the amart, gayly colourful, extremely sensible sports frocks that are un fashionable.

DID YOU KNOW

Touthing suit is staging it return?

red and white gingham

Either pin checks or plaid effects are correct, and trimmings take the form of buttons or white pique or lawn.

THAT smoked pearls are particularly new in necklaces and earrings? It in a bizarre sort of fashion to wear ond white pearl earring and one earring of smoked pearl.

THAT the felt hat in soft shapes- the rel! back brim specially favoured la the newest note in millinery? Aigrettes, pleatings of ribbon, or a plain band and wing bow of the felt trim them.

HIGH-C/POWZZEL INPLACA A

Short Hair Makes the Retention of the Tailored Shape Imperative-Suede and Felt Enter

the Millinery Mode.

N

TEWSPAPER folk are making the phowever casual, of an nuclience of most of the cupilal that the † women, will prove that short hair is fashion of "The Bob" is brigging them, the guneral.rule, a

for it is a fashion that is gaining daily But there are--because it is summer

in popularity, if their reports are tramore median large and more picture

·

Lace, Flowers And Ostrich Trim.

:

It is being made the subject mot only bats, than there have ever been, vertain of news items; replies to loquiring

ones of the latter having anal! hend- reporters; and cartoons; but it is getizus, for it is notable that the ting into the courts, as any new iden coiifure that imitates the bobbed head ishoand to dò, vither, directly or is gaining in faveur with the womun Indirectly. So far as fashion is con

would have le cake, and eat it. who cerned, however, the hobbed hand is noto" if one may be permitted the longer a question in doubt, nor is it a metaphor. With warm weather comme question of personal opinion as to its the summer straw-leghorn, milan, becomingness; its suitability; the num- tuscan and hairbraid-and the summer ber of heels being shingled daily; or { fabrics-tulle, chiffon, Georgette sind the lawfulness of the act is a crepe de chine. They appear, for the certain fact, and as such the most part, in the larger shapes, and prekonal with--and whether the air there is a decided fair for Bunglok- of The Woman-Who-Beys he short or an extremely smart, rather expensive leng, she will find that this newest straw-in the medium has, white the fashion of hair dressing as hecome new small shapes are of the felt or general enough to radically affect many | suede. of the fashions of the hour especially in the millinery mahe. For a long- time every bulletin issued on the ever- churiking style in hota referred to the war against the cloche Subsequent events have proven that the cloche wus nover in any danger at all, for the increasing number of bobbed heads made the anallhat a settle thing, and of all the small hat shapes the cloche and turban for the wider brim with un' is the uns generally becoming Whe inclination to droop. Such a hat a ther time will bring about a general pictured-its material brown hurac return of long hair, only time will teli,hair, its "trimming plumes in brown but it is quite curiain that nury will and a soft shade of green. The brist never give up the comfort and becomwhich is bound with brown maire inges of the shingles bond, and ribbon-droopsvheemingly, and it will special styles for that head will always be noticed that the rolffure beneath be imperative.

is tight to the head, and the head size is comparatively amali. This combina tlon gives to the "picture" hat, a quite in keeping with the trend of fashion in every department.

The Situation At The Present' Time.

As mutters stand to-day, it is the

Of the summer araws hairbraid "ja, perhaps, the most gruphasized, although emphasie in usually a matter of the mind-of the particular designer whose display is under condderation Flowers, lace and antrich are the approved trim- mings, and shapes discard the clocke

WITH LAC SPOSEZZAN

There is onsouragement, too, for the long-haired woman in the medium sized hati it is becoming to, her

oven when the brim is narrow. Somo

The Fine Art of

Home Making

PORTUNATE, indeed, the women who has own the hospitality of

a really, truly, old-fashioned country home, where life always centred about the firu-place and the "Mother" of the family prided herself on the whiteness of her bread; the clarity of her jellies; and the flakiness of her pie-rrust; rather than on her prowess in golf or the total of her bridge or Mah Jongg core. Bat the modern woman has memories, too, of the Turnishings of that home, which may have been of the

† bleek wabiut and horsehair type, their only redeeming feature their hominesa as differentiated from their homeliness! Such memories bring only contentment with present day conditions that permit the beautiful and comfortably, as well as the friendly and reposeful.

For. nowadays one may have the same honey, lived-with look, but it seems to have grown gradually into beauty with the years,

Fashions, in homes, like fashions in clothes, change with time, though not with the frequency, praise bel And changes have brought a certain breadth of outlook in what a room may, or may not contain, this new point of view as valuable as it has been long in the making The day of the "period" soom; of sulton; of matching furniture has passed, and new demands have created new idons in the cholge and grouping of furniture. Nor does this mean that all the old has been discarded for from it--but the best fins been kept, to add ita charm to the now.

Many of the new things reflect the

The Convenience Of A Real Toilet Table, Made More Convenient By A Shaded Light.:

prohibitive to any but those blessed

harmony obtained by what might be termed the accessories of the room- its lamps, its rugs, its curtains and drapes. It is preserving a cartain balance without lessening the value of (each Individual clement,

The old, "atilted" idea of the "set" and matching pieces has given away to the more pleasant idea of contrast, There are sets--or suites-of two or three pieces, but all the furnishings of the room are not uniform, as in the olden days. It is that contrast has a value that monotony has not, and very often now life is given a room by the addition of a single plece, chosen ter harmonize with the old, but of a differ ent period, perhaps, or in contrasting colour, ́À red chair, or a bloc, ar i will strike a surprising note of green, beauty in a room where there is nothing of the colour selected, except, perhaps a touch of it in cushions or hangings. Or a pleca of Frencli, Italian, English or Chinese furnituró may lend the variety that is the apico of furnishments, us well sa life.

The new piece must not be too differ- ent-too far removed in proportion and incs-from, its companions-to-be, for when this is the case. It makes inharmonious note, which is, more than anything else, to be avoided. The incidental chair, or bench, or tablo musti correspond in its general lines and "feeling" with the other ploces, if it is to bo the success thut one wishes it to be. Sturdy, rugged pieces do not go well with frivolous, fragile thingsto combine them savours of the ridiculous in every

way; and one would not look

wear with long hair that is having decidedly tailored appearance that it and it is, nt times, less weighty than for many of thera feature, high crowns, spirit of the old, and the up-to-date with wealth, but reproductions-even pieces that are richly.vencered with

a difficult time-nel to find a hat, fa there are hists for her, of course but

to find a variety of hats from which

Perhaps no more intriguing use of

to choose. The small head size is the lace could be conceived than the eireles general rule, and the lines of both brim that kim the broad brimmed shape of and crown have been drawn to frame | black cire satin. The lace is very

the face that is, in its tura, framed narrow and extromdy fine, and one gets

October, so the hnt of felt was intro- doced. It is an undoubted value in the mode, for it is colourful, pretical

some hats of straw with flower or ribbon trimmings, Whatever the reason for it, it most certainly exists,"

Small Hats Of Colourful Felts And Suede.

of these crowns are square in their cabinet makers of this period adopt to the mellowed-by-time" look-are | natin or tulip wood in a room furnishel

much of the beauty for which master effect, and have been inspired by the cabinet makers of the long ago were Directoire mode, which is one of the prophecies of the fall fashion sheet. famous, and an the years have run A hat of black straw features a high into centuries, much of the work of crown with a drooped brine, and it old-time artists has ended. Genuine taken a band of valvet, ribbon-for the antiques, are highly, prized, their value manner of assembling them; and the old pieces-whether they be heirloom tailored mode and a gay red plume

erowned model prefers the roll brim, fachu and odging it with fabric. Flowers are the preferred trimming for this shape and they serve to increase the appearance of helght The short woman should avoid the high- crowned hat, no matter how.desperate her need of space for her hair-it is not a generally becoming fashion, but

when it becomes at all.

available, so that oftentimes superior Joy comes only, from the knowledge of in sturdy mission. Liberty in choice antiquity. It is not always tho cost does not mean licence, which is, the that makes a home beautiful-it is, dietionary tells us, the "abuse of

liberty."

If one has a home furnished in Gino rather, the choice of the pieces; the

The new felt hints are ingenious in in short hair. Even when the type of the effect of plumes as the wheat motifs their simplicity, and oftentimes are bob is such that its owner wears a net, cascade over the side. A fancy pin- really only a single piece of felt, alit and only to the erften observer is it it is not double headed-relieves the and turned and draped by an artist in-for the dress mode. Another high- apparent that she has had her hair cut, sombre appearance of the bat, emines. It is a hat that may be worn the head sizo is bound to be smaller, mhasizing the vague of black and white with sports things, or the tailored suit which fact keeps many of the smartest which is quite as smart as it has or dress, and when it is not trimmed the with itself it wears flowers, a bird's shapes away from the womnn who has ever been. Crepe de chine is held on to her long treases. Apropos fabric chosen for the third large hat, head or a ribbon band-perforably of of the bub, one may say, in pussing, and it illustrates the tendency of velvet. The suedo hat is of an equal that it has been a boon to the woman fashion to prove its rules with notable simplicity and both the felt and the with so much hair that she has found exceptions, for this hat will have suede hats are a boon to the woman with long hair, for the head sizes will

It dificult to get a hat large enough nothing of lace, of feathers or twem,

even in the days of large crowna with- but relies for its charm and different be large enough to fit snugly, yet com-like all modes becomes extremely well out the crown being out of all propor-ness on embroideries of chenille, though fortably, which is all anyone can ask.

tion, artistically, to the brim...

Ary talk on millinery at this time embroideries1 Something tailorod

It

L doen conrode a flower mótiť in those

of the year should be concerned, chiefly,

about this hat, too, although i l ́

A

with the larger hats that summer

dress hat both in fabric and trimming.

There in, it will be supposed, u ranson

always brings. And any talk on millinery, any time of the year-with for everything, but it is a bit difficult

OSTRICH AND MARABOU.

▶IVALLING -in popularity the much- ked summer fore-ermine, coney,

the situation the way it is, should be to explain, at first, the kies underlying mudy with the long-haired woman in suede, felt and velvet-trimmed hata in squirrel, rabbit and weal-estrich view, since she is the one who needs July. The women of the north adopted and marabou have thund a place in the assistance. But Jest as there are more summer hats in mid-winter, when they small hats than, there have ever bear, longed for a change, and saw models mode. Perhaps their cater claim to so is it hard to give any very lengthy that had been designed for

consideration as a trimming-part od for southern from their undisputed beaty by their advice to the woman who is perilstingwear displayed in

16 wearing her Hair long. She is the Gradually the straw hat in January ability to passo frock from a mediocre victim of circumstances beyond her became a settled and expected fashion. thing to something really lovely. control, if ever woman was, in a matter One supposes that it was quits foo Espincially is thin trts of ostrich, with of fashion. Naturally designers will much to ask of any woman that she is willowy grace and exquisite dainti design for the majority, and any view, wear straw hats from January until 8

is used in singlɔ flues, in wlapa, and clipped; it-edges flounces, hom edges, scarfs and shawls or makos entire overskits the latter of the single flues. It makes rosettes and flowers" of "great addity and charm, designers finding many original ways to insinuato- its grace into the mode.

One may not forget the ostrich feather

box and the willow ostrich scarf, which poem to bear no resemblance, whatso evar to the ostrich neck pieces of other years.

Furniture Group That invites To Confidences, Suggesting The Cozy

Intimacy Of Afternoon Tea,

#

or acquired--the touch of beauty muy be introduced by an unusual hanging For rug; a well chosen lump or two; à rare bit of fabric, cleverly, placed. A most unusual affect and a really artistid one--was once obtained by clever lady who no thought of "effects" is mind She had recently rented a home, which proved, when the {owner's- furniture! was removed," to "ba sadly in need of repairs. Especially wore the walls discoloured: and ope side of the living room seemed -hape- Jonx Finally, in despair, she hung a length of axare, colourful Paistoy shawl over the ugly place, and: tho, whole atmosphere of the room changed. It happened to harmonize with her rug, so she kept it in mind when she made her drapes, and true beauty war the result.

Wax

It should be remembered that while' 12 rooms for use, not for study as an art object there is, no reason why it cannot be artistic, the while it in rost- Zul, homelike and issable, If it is not artisticnto a curtain extent !it is mos rostful; if it be not matful it is not. homelike; and who will dany that it is not really usable, if it is, not home- iiketo