1924-08-02 — Page 11

SATURDAY AUGUST 2, 1024

and

THE CHINA MAIL.

LARGE SMALL HATS DIVIDE INTEREST

"BARBARA-

WAASLOM

PHOTOS Simm JOEL FEDER

وار کو ہرا دیا ہے کو ما

THE TAILORED SUIT

AN IMPOR TATION

THE DIREC

TOIRE MANNER

The Ubiquitous, Bob.

PROPOS of the progress of affairs in the world of women, nows items ure appearing constantly with word of the increase in the number of bobbed heads, for the fashion on tho increnae, and some, have gone, vơ' The as to prophesy that 5 years from now long had will be obsolute. While it is subject at which much humorous comment is directed, it is really a rious problem-the question "To bob ar not to bdb." When short hair enme into fashion, a few short seasons ugo, the style of the hair cut was uppropriate "fur youth only, and when an older woman adopted it, it WAS ridiculous.

But the comfort and convenience of short hair is undeniable and whoever atarted the craze was quite nowerless, even wishing to, to stem the tide, und es result hundreds of women are having their hair est daily and things have reached n stage where the woman with a mass of haly finds it extremely difficult to buy a hat, that is, if she would be at all "choosey.". Designera are entering to the bobbed head, and hend sizes are small, almost without exception. And there are many bobs from which to choose, so that if one has her hair cut by an expert she can be sure of advice as to the correct style for her, and nine times out of ten her appearince is improved in the surno proportion that comfort is gained.

Many women have their hair bobbed, tur it, if they are not fortunate though to possess a natural wave, then net it down in such a way that only the closest observer would know that it was not long. There are a score or more of ways, all in the interest of tybe, and judging by the present trend, indicated in the busy beauty and barber shops, the answer to the above-men- tioned problem is, most emphatically, "to bob."

مید ہے ترسے کی

.

Late Spring Brings the Broad-Brimmed Hat As a Promise of Summer-Straw With

Fabric is Vogue ”—Trimmings.' .,

THE problem of selecting the mest herming hat is vrepleated by

the wide variety of every known shape

is anything but simplicity tell. Such

a fashion is the fab hat-of Milua with an ornamental fab dangling from

you that "Qui veut.peat," anul proves it

such a hat has a walking stick-to- watch, molto and all; and the needle- work. hat of fabric, embraidered or appliqued.

Unusuality Makes For Individuality.

and an equally wide chests a uniknown 4 grosgrain or moire ribbon; the shapes Th-should pro-delight_monogram_het or the one that assures to the woman who adon, "aging on" although it in halyar but "trying on the sale whose suggestions Are

ignored. Fahions in millinery change a rapidly At this Reuson of the year. and there is always such a potent fascination in the about-to-be disclosed mode, that the careful buyer struggles, to buy artistically, economically, yet with an eye to the future. Brief-if one enn really be brief in any summary of the millinery mode the small hai, which lends itself graciously to the slender silhouette, and the farge hat, which means, distinction if our venes it well, are both being generally featured, with the accent-if there be anyon the small, tailored shape.

Straw With Fabric The Preference.

The one really definite rule-and it applies to the small, mither than the lage l straw with fabric' although there are 20243 lable exceptions to verify it. It would be impossible for anyone to really be sure of the season, so far as hats are con- cerned, if she did not look at the calendar, for there are straws-Milan, Indian bead straw, cellophan, Leghorn, timbo and crinol; straw with all moire, faille, bengaline, feit and velred; fell hate and nails, hat-faille, bergalive and molte the favourites, Velvel is being prominently festured, event, this early in the season, where in former years we have come to expect it about July. The large picture shapes preauppase chiffon. Georgette, and-since it is inen senson-line laces, especially Chantilly.

never

Onemast, necessarily, report on the eluche, for it in storm centre of the millinery World, It hangs un teba- ciously, and there seeras to be more than a grain of truth in the prophecy that so long as bobbed hair is fashion, the cloche will be worn. It is interest- ing to note-and then one can draw her own conclusions that

wern barbers and heir-dresser's buy bobbing hair. We are not yet done with the ubiquitous `cloche. The tricome and the sailor are sharing, hone with the cloche for wear with the tailored suit, and the Russian turken, high in front, and the Chinese furban are worn. Then, too, there are shapes that start flea cloche and so point their brims that they become ricornes; odd little hats with scalloped brims; and shapes with double und triple tiered brims.

If a unique or unusual trimming cun be found, is exploited in the interests of individuality. Such a trimming the huge book and eye seen on a smart tailored shape; the hat trimmed solely with a quill in back; the hat of suede in a high colour; and the turban with scarf trimming, war with a scarf to mitch. Never has there been a season when there were so many radiantly new ideas developed in piquant shapes, and blithe colourings. One may arrive at the large hat mode by easy stages, for there are many in between shapes, neither large nor small, but, large enough to satisfy the woman of generous proportions who may not wear the picture hat type becomingly. There has been a notable attempt to make the Directire mode in hats popular one but so far it has not been An unqualified success, for the reason that many modes are not successful only the few muy wear them bucom- broud brim with poke tendencies, or Neither the high crown, the ingly.

the jockey lines are universally becom ing, but when one can wear them, they are very fetching. Directoire vells, Directoire marfs and a deal of yellow and blue are the salient features of that particular style.

|

The light-weight, faney straws and the cobwebby fabrics of the large hat mude are made the inoxt of in the newest picture models. Nothing will, in all probability, ever take the place of the garden hat for warm weather wear on vertain occasions, and much of picturesqueness would depart frem our costuming, were it eliminated. Unusual and graceful shapes of not particular period; models that are a legacy from the reign of Louis the Sixteenth; the leghorn "flop" hat: and the mushrooming de atraight-brimmed picture hats; all these are represented for the coming season. They are, first of all, exquisite of straw or fabric, graceful of skupe, and dashing as to trimming. They make use of ribbons, laces, flowers, feathers and maline, and add much to the joy of living by their charm and beauty. Every woman who has any logical use for it, and can wear it becomingly, should own a brond- brimmed hat.

The trimmings for these hats are Strangely enough, Rame of the Lailored, and ribbon-plaided taffeta, trimmings on these hats incline to the grosgrain, belting, moire, ombre or simplicity of the tailored, tuking cire- best liked of all the simple tailored bonds and bows of ribbon; trims. It makes bows, fut bands, runs appliquer, embroideries, especiully in the tapestry stitch; and flowers applied a devious way through loops of straw, and forms the sole ornament on a closely and fintly, almost in the manner straight-brimmed sailor with an odd of applique. Flowers are, of course, crown that is not unlike

the logical trimming of the summer Rhinestone ornaments, contrasting hat, and this year, fashion is logical, pipings and bindinge feathers applied | if nothing else. There is nothing Rutly on toques and turbans—these are | loveller, in the large hat realm, than a few of the trims that appear. There mushroomed, skupe garlanded with Sre, too, many individual inshions in the small hat mode, but no one of them

THAT

derby. A

flowers or with its droop enhanced withi sprays of peacock or glycerined ostrich.

DID YOU KNOW-

IAT a new cane in smart malacca finish can be divided into three parts one will be a pen, one a pencil, and the third a flask for ink or per- fumo? It is one of the most unique of many novelty accessories,

THAT another, old-time material this time it is challis has been resur- rected to bring variety to the world of materials? It is effectively used in frgeke of the tailored type and in cgata for wear over summar dromen

THAT fabric gloves are following the designs that have been popularized In kidskin? And alk gloves keep close to the fashion of fancy cuffs and much -ornamentation?

THAT a new idem in blouses is the detachable skie frill? It is a part of a strictly tailored blouse of crope' de chino with long sleeves, V-neck and over-blouse lines, and is plped in con- trasting colour.

THAT the new scarfs for evening wear make generous use of ostrich as trimming, its lovely colourings making it very effective. Fringes of tho heavier sort, applique and em- ¡broideries'are also popular.:

THAT the gardenia boutonniere has a rival in the rod geranium that comes

to us as a part of the season's fuir for.

HAT OF FANCY HAIR BRAID WITH

OSTRICH

Poke shapes have their brims faced solidly, with wee French roses; drapes of veiling, maline or lace ars effectively used; and wings are used in combina- 11. tion with ribbon. A fushien note interest, that has to do with the sunll hat, rather than the large, is the aus- vival of the short back, originated for wear with the high collar, ant retained for wear with the fur scarf. Back trimmings on both large and small shapes are emphasized.

sec

Late Models Show Great_Varisly .. in the pictured models we assurance for the present and promise of a future that will at least, have variety. Insistent in its demand for variety in ita accessorica, the tailored suit finds some thing new in a close little model made of padded falls of fabric, and quitë untrimmed-except for the flat Bowers at one side, and the drop vell, cleverly embroidered where the hat itself makes a background for the design. Such a hat should be worn only when one is definitely assured of its becomingnuss, since its brimless lines make it decidedly trying to the profile. More generally becoming the hut of fancy straw with fan-shaped ornament of glossy finished ostrich enveloping the high crown.

This orna ment is in a colour known as "dead leaf brown" and "makes" the hat fully as much, if not more, than the share itself. -

Uncompromisingly straight the broad brim of the large hat, and short in back as well. The straw is a semi- transparent Swiss Crinol, the colenr black, but the model to the

yolda popular demand for colour with gorgeous double rose spray-that has, A roses are like to have a thorn or two-and it winds around the crown and catches up the narrow back. Tho wide, under-chin scarf and streamer is of doep old rose taffeta ribbon. Flaring just a bit, all around, the other large hat model is made of fancy halr, and'. has its edge bound with silk. It places its faith in a solitary ornament of ostrich for trimming, but so striking are is colours that it justifies the faith. Orange, blue, flamingo, green and binck blend to make for the beauty that the true picture hat demands.

THE TREND IN CORSETRY,

THERE have been the most amazing developments in the cornet world the past few years, developments that have yielded much of real comfort to womankind, especially the woman with full figure. The gradual evolu- thus of the versat from a stiff, come.

One, Two And Three Skin Scarfs Are Correct For Wear With The Salt Or The One-Piece Frock.

paratively unyielding, heavily, bored affair to a lightly made garment has been almost imperceptible, but it has taken place just the same, and flexi- bility is now the watchword rather than uncompromising rigidity,

.

Furs Belong to Every

of the Year

WE no longer consider either fabrics

or rimmings in relation to season that is, really take thought of their appropriateness-for f we did, we would be amazed at the inconsistency. and incongruity of many general choice, it used to be that für belonged to winter alone, and while every women who felt she could afford it included a "fur "coat "or scarf, a muff, and possibly a fur hat in her wardrobe, they were put away with the coming ef war weather and kept "put away" unti wilter came again. Moreover, they were not subject to changes in style, and many a coat was a treasured hair- loom, handed down from mother to daughter.

1

with every season, but "Benignora sed" to it that it never loses the "alle" that makes it so desirable.. No matter how much she may wish to do so, the stout, watust may not wear it, but there are models specially designed for the woman inclined to plumpness' as well as for the slender figure.

The choice of fur for, the contes is principally a matter of taste, although Jome are more dressy than others. Summer ermine and white concy-called "erminette" are well liked, for they are not only light of weight, but may be had in the cocos, beige, platinums cocoa and, nude shades, as well as in white, Wensel comes in cocoa, beige, kolinsky and sable colours and natural squirrel is well liked. Carasul has lost Furs are, to-day, a four-season fabric none of its popularity, and Persian and trimming, and the well-dressed lamb and American broadtail seem to womun, if she would be smart, is be- fit into the picture with ears. A list furred becomingly... Her fur cout is of the skins that are featured this kept up-to-the-minute, so fKY 718 Beuson will always include Jeopard... 2 fashion is concerned, and no wrap of for much used as a trimming as well fur, these days, is likely to ba Jong- As a fabric-Pahmi, which is gray lived enough to become an heircom. marmots pony; black muskrat; Boron The far scarf and far for trimming | duki; and nutria, although many prefer purposes are accepted facts in their to leave the latter to the winter months, respective worlds of accessories and since it possesses heaviness and i trimmings, and with the exception of duller tint than is generally liked. a few of the heavier pelts, the best- liked skins are worn the whole eur through. Fors, are as much a matter of fashion as frocks, and designers

'seem to be able to do the same subtle

things with fure that they do with fabrica.

*Curiously enough, the result is happy one in appearance as well as a welcome one in the way of comfort. There is fundamental reason' for the This, then, is the story of the mear! ehangs that will appeal to even the and the short cost-variously known as. 'nost skeptical-the lightly made corset the Jacquette and the coatee-and the follows the natural lines of the Agare part they play in the fashion scheme. where the rigid garment does not. Never, for an instant, belittle that part, This la aj it should be, if ope makes

for it is a leading one, and fur, skilfully it her business to be sure that unlovely applied, is one of the loveliest of the lines are, at the same time, currceted many lovely trimmings. The vogue for For the slender woman there are the the scurf is having its effect on the loveliest sorts of outfits, consisting of neckpiece of fur, and another contri- corset and matching brassiere, both buting "reason, to its popularity in the made of recognized brassiere Inbries-vogue of the tailored suit lace, satin, suede, even organdy.

Laceless models in suede fabric have a little more resistance, and they launder perfectly; garments that rake a very generous use of elastic ure well. liked and they are doing wonders with the fact that the stout woman cannot clastis, these days and the step-in-or should not-wear & large neck corsel has many followers. The nicest piece. Unfortunately this rule is not thing about it all is-there is a wide always followed, bat the fact remains variety, and one may be as light or as that fluffy neckwear is the prerogative firmly corseted as her corectiere-not of the slender, and the smaller piece is she herself-feels she should. The

correct for the woman of full Aguro. trend is toward, not away from, the- corset,

Mah Jongg enthusiasts may now own a set of holders fitted with pers and complete with real Chinese coins for counterE. It is a clever, artistic, and convenient accessory to the game, and would make an excellent prize.

THE VOGUE OF PLEATS:

The average length of these coats runs from 26 inches to 32, but it

somewhat on the one who i depends to wear the model. The very short coat may be worn only by the very slender, and there are times when an added inch or two makes the short coat

a possibility for the woman of fall figure. Models that are cut with Chinese straightness vie for popularity. with the surplice model that fastens at the side, and there are many versions of both. Sometimes these coats have collars or cuffs or other trims of

member that contrast cuts height, and contrasting fur, but it is well to re-

therefore, at times undesirable. The military collar has appeared, and there are various types of the shawl The suit

The average. and flatlying collars. demands something about the neck, and coatee in not only serviceable, but the scarf and the fur piece answer that decidedly stunning, which makes it a demand. The latter takes two forms, welcome addition to the smart ward- the small skin pleee and the large skin

robe. scarf, the former made imperative by

The small skin scart may be had in one, two and for those who wish it- three skin. pieces, and may be of Ruisian or Hudson Bay sable;, fisher; or any of the smaller animals. The sables are loveliest with the browns, while gray and white seem more appro priate to black and blus, although it la, by all means, a matter for personal chalce, For the larger piece fox is the fur, and one may be luxurious in silver or natural blue, regardless of her costurge colour scheme,, or she may wear fox that has been dyed to, har-" menize with her suit or frock.

This much may be said, that a silver or natural blue fox skin is lovely enough of itself to demand a background-an the same principle that a picture is "hung."

It in Ro

OR a time fashion had the unsatis. corner of the realm of style into which

factory habit of discarding oven

pleats do not penetrate. They make whole dresses and costume Bulls; the best liked details of a sosson's separate skirts and blouses; and trim styling with the coming of a new mode, with panels, inserts, tiers and flounces bat one of the most noticeable changes the frocks that are not wholly made ap of the past fow years is the increasing of pleats. They are used on lingerie tendency to retain a style, 'n mode, or "and" boudoir 'apparel; on 'ncekwear; on With every new season the short coat hate and as shoe ornaments. A coat-an inspiration of a few seasons back- may be mate wholly of fine pleats, and takes on new importance.

capo the same, and the very newest practical, so comfortable, so versatile, fancy in the suit world is satin done at mart. It may be worn any boar of the day on any occasion, whether ano Thero is a tendency to into pleate, the narrow pleat, and a smart little he shopping, tening, lunching or just tubs frock und ihren tiers that alternate tramping about It has come to be A fashion feature of a character, so narrow pleata and the plain material, each tier headed with tubing of the distinctive that one cannot imagine fabric, which fa. Georgette. Even the time when some version of it will not mort severe modela tailored cloth be in style. It has passed from a fad frocke make a capassion to decoration to a fact in the wardrobe. Like any with an insert of the material pleated coat or wrap; it varios in its styling

Not to be outdons, by the cast and Auit mode, a straw hat adopts light- a dutail, if it proves at all popular. weight fur as e trimming. The rolled This has been the case with pleats, brim, in bound with narrow grosgrain which were viewed a bit skeptically ribbon and the hand of ermine is held in the light of our experience with In place by a small harness buckle of other voguer-when they drst appear metal. A fad of the moment for ed But it happens that fashion's Milady to be buckled both as to her liking for this smart and graceful bit shoes, and fier hati Thur do we of detall has waxed, rather than exemplify the mode that is, above all waned, with every icason following its clae, zefreshingly new, made up, as it introduction, and as a result we have "ls, of models both dabing and pleats as a definite vogue.

red? It appears on evening frocks of irreslatible, of which a surprisingly If one may be permitted to includs white, as well, and is most effective. large number are incredibly flattering, frills in the flet, there will be hardly

The Vogue Of The Short Coatee For

Spring And Summer Popularize The Light-Weight Feri