1924-07-12 — Page 7

TURDAY JULY 12, 1924

THE CHINA MAIL.

Show a

Summer Frock Graceful Charm

BY BARSARR

WIKILOM

IF DATED 1924-

THE COAT is made of a lustruicəs

fabric such as.. wool suede, juna cloth, twill or charmeen. It has a Btted shakier in the interests) of slenderness: employs trimming details such as pleatings, tuckings, tubings. ent-our work, applique, braid, galloon or embroideries; is trimmed, in moat cases, with summer fur; and may be black, blar, black and white, beige or

THE FROCK is straightly simple, if bir sports; Fmart and slim, if for the street or wear in the afternoon; and either slender or bouffant, if for evening wear. Twille, tunnels, alpaen, antin, crepe Georgette, Ince and chitron are the diner fabrics in vogue;

and tinens, voiles and ginghams are the enttens. Scarfs, rapes, aprons, tiers, skie drapes and flounces supply amart thetails.

THE SUIT is two or three-piece style precisely cut and uncompromis- Tailord. Its cent is short, if one may wear it set ar long, if it must be; the skirt short and straight of line or

ingly

azund

wrap-around. Twills, charmeens, satins and silks are the fabrics of this mode no their tailored quality is effectively modified with braiding, embroideries ar ribhun bindings..

THE BLOUSE either suited to the tailored mode, being strictly tailor- ed itself; iy sreeck-like in its line or made peasant fashion. It will graw longer, it prophesied, us the sexson

advances, and long suit-coats increase

in

number, as they are bound to do.

Thi

THE HAT is small, except when of the picture or garden váriety. brim may take curious twists and tarns, and the hut itself may adopt flaring trimmings that give an appear- ance of size, but it will remain small, regardless. The cloche keeps ita hold on the mule, and although it often wears a clever disguise, its popularity remmins assured.

HAND

Beautiful Fabrics, Simple Lines and a Wealth

Fi

of Detail Make for a Mode of Unusuality

-Sheer Materials Popular.

HOO

HE PORCH OR

I is not too soon to consider with No other sheer fabric is lovedles in the seriousness that is its due--the- voluur than this, sheer, firm weave, and sumpler frock. Aud the summer frocks the Khades need put be pastels, pre-supposes many things that are although the pale pinks, blues, haven-are circular, plented or straight of line faseating-dainty

inty fabrics: alluring ders

and yellows are delightful but colours; and linge of a sophisticated may be gray, mulberry, Lanvin green, simplicity, Following the general

blue, tangerine, amethyst, trend of the spring mode, and rextend-hequer red or orchid-there is handly.

a limit to the 1st of

prasibilities

Houder

plusoned for the Southern wenson-now purt the offerings are bannna yellow; for Madeira and crons extremely interesting, for they employ stitch embroideries; for frills of white many new versions of tried, depend voile en colour; for pink and powder able materinis in white, or the newest blue. Beige and brown, peach and

* #hades of rulours that are heritage bisque du tumbination. There are of Bensons past.

home | lovely shades, dainty trimmings Fund including Porto

the

HINE

میں سیم نیت کرے گی

Ribbed silks-ranging from the murrow-wade faille to the wide-waÏe Ottoman-are much used for gowns, conts, hats and 'suits They strike a distinctly new note, especially in the tailored mode...

Shoes Perpond to the

TAILORED MODE

fact that there are long, medium and judgment of its weiter by ita dixcom- short vamp shoes; narrow and broad fort. For the large foot a perfect fit; lasta; high, low and medium heels; and

dark colours; preferably black; and variously shaped Insteps from which broken lines is the recipe; no one of THERE is a change in the shoe to choose. All this means shoo com.

the three impossiblę, "1. situation, so far as the modern [fort, and what detail of our costuming woman is concerned, although the should spell comfort first, if not our change is more subtle, in other ways than in that of style. Not that there tre noi style change of vast importance and interent, but a change that has to

ES THE START

Sometimes the foundations have knots

JEWELS AS CURES. or bows of ribbon or the small French flowers showing through the laces.

generat the summer frock makes M. Did you know that certain In

MOST persona weny jewels as adorn- use of

tucks, hand work, flera either to the influence of summer nædels more is a flair, for gokien red and pipel or set on with hemstitching-jewels when worn are supposed to cure

yoke, spron and ounce,

nco, embroi-ills and prevent disasters? It is well dary in self tones or done peasant style to know this so you may take tha by native needlewomen. There are proper precautions when dressing for i de with comfort is far more important plain, tailored effects

a-plenty,, and

a party. the borom front patch pocket and

young woman wears. An monogram are part of the tallared amethyst she has an amulet against mode. Breiderie Anglaise a combine fightiness and fully, and may foin in tion of

eyelet ani cut-out work-is any frolicrome venture without fear effective on either batiste, organite or voile, and much used; and one, secs an ucensional belt, although the self-tie ash, varying in width, is more popular. The Chinese idea-without which no mode is complete is interpretist in cotton in a smock of calico or English print, and is worn with 's plain skirt.

To Prove The Possibilities Of The Mode.

Not only

weavers, dyers and deskmers, but for. i ich je kat work, aplique, hand-

eign artists have contributed to the Rican hand-drawn mude, atul Tingland, France, Italy and made Ice-Vente, Val and Trish the Far Eastern countries have

Which leads. Ds-xgain

helped

make a wonderful collection yet more

wonderful.

the

Fine

i

Hunction

אן

tion

Proof positive that details will co- inue to influence fashion through the

of being led zoo far.

if

she wears a sapphire she will be proof against deceitful suitors, no matter how artful their wooing may be. Certain varieties of the aquamarine likewise were the power to diving the thoughts of others.

If she wears a ruby she has a charm against rheumatism and kindred dis- eases, Her manner will be vivacious Most lively.

The wearer of the turquoise has

and

2. **** /animer months, we have the clever stil-possession. She enn think clearly

12

Laces Applied With Artistry. The true summer frack this year is nymbolic of charm. curi

this year, a fogue--both when

Jubric and a trimmings Pagility one considery ously contradictory certain masculine fashions that have contributing, mildly enough, to even the so widely adopted in the fushio sailored mode. It is both an afternoon work:.

and evening fashion, and it has the Sheer Fabrics Most Jn Favour.

of practically every designer We have come to

Variety in of nude. expret

1 is combined with whitfor fabrics appropriate to the senson, and

and Georgette and voile and linen and fashion, at this time, meets our Byen cotton-and it makes

fiounen expectations. There are cotton crepes

skirts; full lure edgings, jubots and frills. Its way -especially those of the variety ratines in basket weave, drop- | are

are infinite; its variety of patern and Mitch

checks and

boundless. patterns, stripes,

Lace is Application aits, and heather mixtures, as well fashion handed down to us from the as solid colours; printed cottons and modes of the Italian Ronnaissance; the calicos; sponges and linens, bath plain reign of Louis Fourteenth and Queen and embroidered; and many favelty Elizabeth; and, it lives always in the cution weaves. D orgundie there is, fashion of Spain; but it is investe

far, very little; batister are fairly with new charm in the Inxhions of 1924.

dated Swiss has populer;

following:

combines with net ar satio and when and gingham, both plain and tissue, afrock in itself, it is worn over holds to the same popularity it has tinted

silk made into Chatten erege or

There are the enjoyed for years. But sheer materials straight line slip. are stressed, more especially voile, and thread-run luces; tinted Spanish and for semi-formal and formal wear, line dyed Venise hures; Chantilly and inces.

shadow laces; metal, beaded and real The interest in voile has been in- Princess Inces--the latter the prerog

tive of the bride.. It is a versatile creasing for many summer seasons,

itsders, this year, to have reached material, in that it becomes both youth and it'

Heights of charm and variety. It and maturity, although it and its avowedly, the most popular of all loveliest expression for the former in the fabrica, and the strong delicacy of combination with chiffon, tulle ur its weave makes it a vogue assured Georgette, the all-lace gown being Te, flush! There are beaded voiles; voilles with rather difficult to wear. single, double or multiple rows of drop culoured foundation seems favourite stitches in checked and squared pat- under the sheer fabules that are vagas, terms and the delicate printed voiles, and upper with equally dainty effect. which lead one, logically, to colour. under the bouffant gown or those

now

£

ยุ

COMPLEMENTING THE SHOES FINE HOSIERY.

#

to qualify

mind under the most trying circum- stances,

Olivines give the wearer a ready wit and an easy converantion.

Emeralds are a spur to ambition and promote the spirit of a lender.

A piece of jade will, exorcise bad .fuck.

Bitl Georgette model, or rather the and she will have great presence of model of Georgette in combination with n sheer embroidered fabric. The yoke That

is used so much this season in the interests of trimly fitting shoulders; the row of buttons down the centre front; the tucked front panel and cor trasting side panel; all are significant, and together achieve an unusual effect that is, nevertheless, ruticeable for

A moonstone gives the wearer the The

hand-drawn simplicity.

work

gift of pleasing. It is also an aid to frock-hure

in developed

crepe, beauty. The wearer of this stone seca though it might as well have been everyone about her in their best aspect. yole-bus much to recommend it. On The topaz banishes melancholy and neersions, it can be worn over a cplaur imparts serenity and a contented mind. ed slip, although this

particular model, with its subtle apron verskirt, would hardly be effective that way, since there is double thickness of the material. The overskirt is so arranged that a normal waistline results, and it will be noticed that the model bounts m coils of the material.

DID YOU KNOW

THAT the abort kid glove with or without a cuff-is the choice of the fashionably dressed woman? This The scarf will be no less popular on is the case whether her sleeves be short cominuer dresses than it has been on for long. those of late winter and spring. The A new foba now have an ormu little dress that employs it can easily ment and stick-pin in place of the bar? a high-necked, tailored affair They may thus be used for millinery tulder, although the V-neck is a

throwing the Rear? ever the purposes as well as for blouse or

tailleur,

Ironic a

The

more comfortable alternative for the THAT "Paris sponsors the coat of oppressive heat of the senson, Tucks black fabric trimmed with white furt are the only trimming and there is Satin, charmeen, twill or silk are the an hereusing tendency to the use of fabrics, and erminette or ermine the decorative effects that make use of the furs. fabric of which the model itself is built. THAT combination sweater-twn

tube

bee detail? the virtue of the fashion in the from the dress may not be omitted in one variety-makes use of the scarf

any representative group of xun

The latter is separate and mer frocks, for it is a definite style, may be worn with any costume it will and charming when becoming to it complement. Wearer.

richness of the fabric, THAT Ruede, chamois, and buck-skin the deep tucks At

at the hom and the will be, the preferred leathers for clever tasselled trimming are responsi

summer wear, appearing in the pastel

possibility of really beautiful colour schemes worked out through the glove, accessory, hosiery route. Gloves and stockings match, at least, they should, and one may strike the same note in costume Jewellery, in the lining of sleeve or panel, in the facing of a hat brim or a bit of trimming.

The

ble for the choice of the pictured model. shades and certain of the brighter A bit of contrast is afforded by the colours?

and collar, but the dress

narrow-cuffs apt..

The colours themse¡ves ?" There are depends for its originality on tho hundreds of them--no exaggeration-trimming at the side and the entire

of must! You may wear. peach, absence you

banana, apricot or pineapple,

ton-

with- not be summer wi

cocoa, crushed berry, cinnamon,

A dress of more in the wardrobe.

Jang, lender

and interesting than any other, even the most skeptical avoman will admit the fact. It

It is no longer permitted the designer to command last for everybody, regardless of the length and breadth and arch of the fastep of the individual, for the buyer now expects a last that conform to

White, Footwear Comes In With The Summer Months, And The Simpler The Fashion, The Smarter The Shốc.

the shape of her foot, and more than that, she expects a wide variety in that last, whatever it may be

Gone the day when the woman with a short, plamp foot suffered in a long vamp shoe at least threr sizes tou large for her, so far as length was concerned, that she might have a com fortable breadth. And one reason of nothing but short vamp shoes taught the futility of that iden, as well. Sa "we are suddenly met with the amazing

THE "BOYISH” LINE? YES AND NO.

footwear? Gone the day when the high heel was a subject for sermons against-its vanity, for some, there are who wear no other heel with comfort, and for whom the low heel makes trouble in the guise of broken arches.

So one may assume at the outset that the choice of a last has heon mada with due regard to one's individual fou, and once the decision has bean reached, the rest is Colour

is, easy: perhaps, the first considoration, and we are passing, just now, thre

through season of black. This does not mean that no other

colours appear, but black seems more generally the choice. Whether the

Vogue for light coloured hosiery has brought this about or black shoes

have been responsible for the stocking rainbow, who shall say It is enough that the fart exile white exists. With real wärm weather there not the dazzling white, but tune..

who's out of colour.

ed kid, white and coloured kid, and any combinations that will prove many effective.

A few general nctes may be accept- able. Coloured kid in two tones, the contrast being introduced effectively in pipings and atraps and appliques; com-," binations, such as satin with suede, suede with kid us patent, lizard with suede are in fashion; and the effect that designers know as "high, throat" One are following the buclded, shoe. should beware of the goring shoe, for unless it fits correctly and is the correct type for the foot, it can look very like a Congress shoe, and what is uglier? Shoc designers say that satin is not for the daytime, yet crimes will continue in that respect. It most certainly is not a material for the street, and if permissible anywhere it is in the house of an afternoon.

remember that currect dress depends Most important of all, one should

as much on shoes as on the frock or suit. It cannot be said too often though it has been sald many timen, that there is a continuity costar- ing that precludes the flat-heeled loa The beat-liked material seems to ba ther shoe with the satin frock and the suede, probably because of its comfort, high-heeled satin slipper with the and with the clever new dressings that tailored suit, Extremes, perhaps, in have been provided, it is possible to

the scheme of things, but being done change the colour of suede shoes, when every day in the year by someone, who one tires of them. Satin, kid-aicin and is certain that she is properly costum- patent colt are popular, and there are

ed. The rule for choosing shoes s well as combinations of materials as

really "Fit your foot," for:a proper fit for ind

includes not only a comfortable last but

There has been a vog

akin, but

it la not

its virtue seems

the

imenting of designers.

more familiar leat as lovely as the becoming lines, and both have been to be it's novelty. One may mention, in modo ponible by the continued experi passing, the fact that

patent leather of to-day is

A very diferent proposition, from that of a century ago for in those days it was not par- untced," and buying it was a gamble, for it often cracked in spite of eara in warming it before one put it on and greasing it with vaseline or cold cream! There seems to be no penalty attached to its purchase now.

The vogue for tailored suits and coats and dresses has had its effect on shoo styles, and the result in by no means unsatisfactory. Shoes are conserva- tive, but they are decorative. If one the paradox. There is a permit trend away from but that does

straps, not mean there are no straps, för a "trend away" is only a tendency, not an accomplished fact. The backied shoe; gored and cut-out effects; the opera pump and strapped shoes are all well represented in every shoe display,

THE business of choosing hosiery is the subject of many cartoons, and of varied and sundry articles in humorous vein dealing with the wooe of the buyer in getting just the shade sho wishes. One may no longer aay

and some retallers streza one, some another. To go into detail concerning I wish a pair of hose, number. 9,

the individual becomingness of any in gray," that is, she may not say it

modal would be an impossibility, but oach individual should “know her fast,” with any expectation of being instantly served, for the bored and

and know it well. Many do, but every- Pacient saleslady WELL nak

one should, and should study the lines "What shade of

of gray?" and only but

in respect to becomingness. No thoe and that is thousand,

Summer would elsewhere.,

should be bought because it is an reaily reckless proportion, be able gerine, if you care for fruite; you may out a a gingham frock or two usually PHE changing modes of spring could never be, for it demands the attractive model, iust as no, hat stupid

bo brought a new word to fashion's slender figure and youthful lines.

Beauty Moreover the caramel, if you are Epleurean; or,

purchased for it

in itself. the type pictured.

red plays many parts' in

Soms fest look wall dressed in an This quality now appears in frocks. vocabulary, and we now spaak of the and costs and entire costume outfits, as shade "feld, mouso," while another if you love nature, there is sunset, a day's performance, for it is not to boylan" Une; the "boylash" tailleur; well as suits. It is not easily definable, foot doce not, or the foot that is so fat

but the extremely als, and is

opera pump, bu house will call the same colour by dawn. atmosphere, or autumn. The laborato for household tasks, “another-name-one-dare-not-spesily.fornithologist may wear thrush-or-laciesquita, soreset for afternoon wear on | the "boyish" silhouette. It sounds so thoughts to Cuband wholly upon the large foot-and

Intantly recognizable, and

the shoo that the flesh

leh po gatorsumber Which has to do with the multipli- the lover of animals jack rabbit, tor boat type of tabable frock, thore being really is that it is being overdone, as

or It really the very fascinating and desirable and it the use of it must

the Individual. And since the art of city of shades that are being offered tote or Airedale; and if your cheles best type of

creases daily-may be mada two or especially in the grays browns. Is

Is "what-you-will," there are freckles, nothing about its cut, or its smart little any new Idon-be it fact or fancy-is dressing depends upon knowing what three sizes smaller by studying lines There is less interest in the type of Indian akin, dune, pobble, mode, neutral trimmings, or its fabric, that soap and like to be, It appeared first in the one may not wear, rather more than for shortening effects; and the plump Suede Combines With Batin. In A the healery Itault, and more in the and so on and on. But there is no water wat betrend. The summer tailored auftemple and slim ot, he what has de pondered carefully. foot may be given needed length by the Buckled Model That Show The colour, for sheer chiffons, heavy Buch thing as tan or gray or brown, wardrobe will be replete with a vary- ---and was

pounced upon by somadical should be

Trend Away From the Fashion and plain and clocked hose are all-being though there are shades of these Ling charm of line, colour and materia), i tall and short, stout and lean, regard-: They anawer to the question of Itame careful study. The foot, that is

of Susp

Woman

in

to name the shade. colour card of one house will call a

and

worn. Light tones are being worn to colours, and shades are what you will and cannot help but being an assured the practical exclusion of black, and ask to spe

t

leis of its appropriateness. It is not adoption la, thesefore, two-fold—yes, a mode for geral adoption and it; and not.

орети

large will not be made smaller by crowding it into a too tight shoe, but will, rather, cáļl attention to the poor