1924-07-05 — Page 11

SATURDAY JULY 5 1924

THE CHINA" MAIL.

Looking Ahead to June The Month of Brides

BY BARBARA

and Weddings

SLON

PHOTOS Bm well. FEGER

CC47)

when TAILOR

TWO FASHION

FAVORITES SAMMY AND TH SMOOR DESS

IS AJUST

The Bridal Dress Possesses Not Only Beauty, But Adaptability-Its Usefulness Does Not End With the Wedding Day.

YOUTH "dreams dreams and sees visions," thinking long. long thoughts and hearing, faintly, the chinte of "mellow wedding bells." As prospertive bride she plans her wed- ding group with any-to-its-effect as a whole, and knows it to be a picture that depends for its beauty on a skilful blonding of fabrics and colour har

anies. She realizes that aho, herself, will provide the rentre of interest, but is 1 menns insensible to the value of her setting, and she naturally craves her share of the traditional stateliness and loveliness that lingers Jong in one's memory, when the day is done. Time was, when the bridal dress, purpose served. was sentimentally laid away to yellow in its tissue paper wrappings, these tire the days when 'prastienlity: rubs elbows with sentiment. So the wedding gown, and the frocks of the bridesmaids and and honour matron are chosen with an eye to future use as dance or evening frocks, and the bride argues quite sensibly and lagipully-"Why sacrifice sense to sentirat, when both may be preserved?" "

Satin Shares Honours With Other Pubrics.

s

In planning the bridal gown satin is the fabric first in mind-the rich, heavy "stuff" of centuries of tradition and countless bundreds of weddings. But one rarely sees it nowadays, that as, in its original form, except in the mother-to-daughter sype of rock that some brides delight to wear Satin there is, to be sure, but it is a soft and supple fabric, far less trying than the sifer, heavier sort, and not infre- quently it in veiled, wholly or partially, with whiffon, luce or souffle de soir. As one would expect, if she has studled. The made in its intricacies and subtle- ties, the sheer materials are very popular, both for the bride and her There is a very general attendarta.. use of Georgette, tulle--both plain and embroidered and chiffon; and since it is a xenson when fashion makes much of laces, the bride may be clad

in their cobwebby fineness, wearing them over matin or the dull-surfaced fabrics, crepe or chiffon.

There is a decided, flair for silver effects-silver ribbons, silver laces fabric and silvery touches on the lowers that are so well liked. Certain types bridal gowns make gunerous use of pearl and crystal; poar! and Thinestones; and the chiffon, rococo or silken flowers that acoin to add just the correct touch to the 'gown. The gown itself may be quite according to the individual taste, for fashion la lendent with lines and moder. The ry young, very slender bride may wear crinolines, and be lovely in them; the long, unbroken lino is preferred by many-it in the eae most generally becoming; and for a certain type the 1830 silhouette may be emphasized. Sleeves are short, long or non-existent; and the neckline is a matter of in- dividual preference.

The_gown for the formal wedding will carry a train, a gorgeous affair of great length and beauty. The court train, which hangs from the suitars,

may be of tulle, or lace or bordered with lace-in in a matter of in- dividual preference and beeoningress. The scarf detall appeurs in the veil 'that is druped scarf fashion, and islls over the army. To some the Juliet cup is becoming; uthers look best when the veil is caught with an orange blossom spray; and there are toque Arrange- ments: the burlotte Corday, and all sorts of drapes and caps.

The Attendants' Pravide The Proper Selling.

a

The individuality of the bride herself is best expressed in the frucks of her altendants, who usually provide colourful Retting for her gown of snowy white, although brides there are, who prefer to keep to white and silver or sl white for the welding party. If the wedding is to be under artificial light, the shades should be carefully blended that they give the effect desired. The soft shades of pink, deepening to tea rose and Ameri can beauty; delicate greens; apricot, Nattier blue, am mave; and the lavender, and fuchsid tones; these, accentie with touches of gold or silver. are loveliest, There is much use of gold and silver lace in combination with colour. In the pictured group the bride has chosen crepe Romaine as the fabric of her gown and kept to simple lines emphasized by rich embroideries of silver pearls unii crystal beads. It

MAIRSIZING THE

WELL-LIKED BACK TRIMMING.

makes the most of its sleeves and

is a gown that possesses a Atatelineas buttons, depending for the rest of its consistent with the most formal church churm on lines and tailoring. There wedding, and the leng train and unique

is little, inclination away from the headdress increase the "feeling" of dignity. The latter in a coronet pencil-like straightnews that is so diff- embroidered in crystal and silver

cult of achievement, except when one pearls to match the wedding gown.

is naturally slender, The result is satisfactory, since it tends to keep women of fuller Agure to the more conservative up-and-down lines.

The Vell in Of Tulle. The maid of honour in frocked' in taffeta in a rich orchid shade, and her sleevelens frock has a deep flounce of silver lace with a huge rose of silk and silver ribbon at the corsage.

The bridesmaids wear frocks of radium taffeta and silver laco voiled in orchid tulle, and the hats of attendants are all of the "deny" variety, trim- mod with ribbons, tulle and wheat ntalks. To fulfil the fashion obliga. tions of her troussonu, and servŰ, perhaps, us a "going away" outst, the bride must have a strictly tailored suit, severe of line and meticulous sto detail. While the original modo insists on the trim little sack coat or some version of its brief charm, there are

A Suggestion. Or Twa For The Trousseau.

trimming of circular motifs of the satin ned with a contrasting colour, the latter repeated, in the lining of the scarf. This model again draws atten- tion to the fact that the tailored mode has influenced many things, for it is, above all else, a tailored frock, of u simplicity that is most gratifying.

The smock-froek-with its tailorods] inclinations may be had in either crepe, silk or cloth, and its trimmings incline to pipinge, tuckings, flat appli- ques, embroideries, bandings und bor. ders. It in a model that may ba characterized as "Boyish," friendly to

Typical of the hat of many uses and ane must have such a model we have the hat of fine black straw with novelty facing and a feather fancy the spirit of. youth and the bobbed that emphasizes the backward trend head, so whether the wedding be of trimmings. It shows a departure large or small, the trousçau lavish from the smooth, round crown, re-limited, the bride will be sure to thrill minding bae, sordwhat,

of the sectional crown seen, but recently o fabric hats. The use of straw the facing and the introduction of colour

with true delight in the planning, for there is much that is beautiful to be hud, much that is original, much that

the newer modela that incline to length, { under the brim lends a new note of la practical and adaptable. "Frocks,

the while they "keep their munnish | real originality, yet does not detract severity. The pletured model belongs from the usefulness of the model as n to the masculine talllour cloas, in which general costume hat. A dednite vogue the most satisfactory types are design- in itself, the smock-frock ands repre- ed for the individual and tailored to

Bentation in a black antin model that measure.

makes use of the scarf detall-as well. Its real claim to distinctiveness is the

It consists of a short, slender wrap- around skirt, and a four-button, single- breasted, braid-bound Jacket, and Its material is

the hairline atripes so widely effected. With the strictly tailored suit is wom the tellored blouse, small hat and shoes of con cervative cut; and the fob, the gate. denla boutonniere and the flat under-" the-arm purse are accessories to this mole But tatloring is by no means confined to the nuit, and the vernatie, well-rounded wardrobe will contain at

sults, coats, and millinory, and all the details of each individual costume-all will petition for a place in the new wardrobe, but some will hold greater appeal, and some will be more dekory-. ing, and those will be the ones that the' wise little bride will.choose.

DID YOU KNOW

THAT fashion that reached ---

THAT a recont. addition to

THE BRIDAL

Dainty Garments for the

BRIDAL

TROUSSEAU

models of the 'mude.

Some cling to

And

designer's creation. She may even find

if possible to buy a garment of some

WITH the ribbon-tied piles of laven-white, others effect flesh and the tints fine material and add trimmings to

of pink, yet others-inoline to the faint-her own taste and antisfactioner

But for her whose purse in, appar yellows, blue, orchid er green. there is yet another class that preferently, never empty; there are wonder- fut things to be had a straightling the all black lingerie, or bfuck in com-

negligee of pleated chiffon in pale hination with fame, strong yellows or

yellow and over it a straight line Chinese coat of dull blue velvet, richly embroidered in Oriental design; sheath-like slip of silver cloth with overdress of orchid chiffon; & confec tion of chiffon drapes in pastel shades over a slip of satin. The general iden in this type of garment is a half-cling-"-- ing, yet wholly negligent effect, and it is art to achieve it.

-der-scented linens crowding the "Hope Chest" the bride considers her underthings and the boudoir apparel that is a lovely contribution to the Lisusseau. She plans dozens of this the and sets of that, yielding to temptation, of lace and chiffon and satin and ribbon, and the lure of luxury and beauty. And when it comes to a choice, the whole wide, world is hers, for never were there such fabrics, such colours, such clever trimmings, and she' may choose cach garment singly or in sets or if she has ideas of her own, make up ber sets to please herself.

In many department stores there ure special sections devoted to bridal lingerie, and the treasures of the

ich

Or Luxurious Underthings

Material May Be Had Is Convenl- ent Sets Of Matching Garments, shelves within are limitless, affording even the "one who goes along" thrille af delight. They are almost too lovely to handle, and, they certainly satisfy the soul with their delicato charm. To achieve all this designers have used exquisite fabrics and Inces, the most delicate of colouringe-or the most the brilliant-and have succeeded · 1n achloving more or Jon ornate effectà without sacrificing the tailored slender. ness of line-that is so imperative,- whan one considers the silhouette.

There are crepes both silk and: cotton; satin and radtum silk; chiffon, Georgette and valo: fino batists and handkerebint linen; for one must have something of practicality to offset dragility and the ection and linen winariale provide this. Indeed, tha peNE MUITORIDE post even more} im-

n

plorative hand into the past and colour card is Titian beige? It la brought forth the fichu. It comes in happy blending of the familiar shade the ansat nots and batista and is worn and the reddish tint that the artist knotted or drawn through fancy made famous.

1a a favourite, and it may be the loveliest part of the gown-und the most trying! Only the woman who least one faunty utility cont of a fabric buskfa or brooch. has height may wear a train becomplain; plaided or in novelty weave. ingly or with a conslatent dignity, and ·Such a cont. may be worn--as illusi

4

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THAT parasols for summor incline THAT the nowoat conceit in "hand- to the Oriental, being now Chinese, when the wedding is marked by sim. trated-over the finish talloor suit, baga is the hand book? It is carried now Japanese7. Palm Beach made plicity, it is quite out of placa The and it is cut on youthful lines, dun

much of the Japanese, paper parasol element of practicality entara into this attention being given to the sort of.

and talka arsignstormed picturesquely, feature and the train la detachable roominess that in no way detracts from and The arrangement of the yellowhich alendernosa, This particular – contami

in the hand rather than under the arm 'proportioned,

greens.

Exquisite laces on exquisite fabrics, made into fairy garments by many. hand-set stitches; satin, ribbons and wee French flowers; ull sorts of hand work; pleats and ruffles; these are the mode. And whether the choice be step-in, chemise, vest or gown--or all four, there is no limit to their decora

There are certain tive possibilities. colour combinations that would not sound well to the ear that are very lovely to the eye, and one's choice inay be quite as vivid as she pleases in these fine garments.

Negligees are garments of great attractiveness, although ono will" and it practical to include a breakfast coat of satin in her Hat, and, one or two of the more practical garments that occa- sional cold mornings domend. The

true negligee, boudoir gown, or tea gown may be a rarely lovely thing, fabricated from таге lar” .... and embroideries; silks, satins and crepes; -chiffon, Georgette and tulle; or the heavier brocades and velvets, if one plans that far ahend. And there are cubinations of these materials, so subtle that one is quite at loss to explain them.

For the practical bride, who has a limit act to her expenditures, there are many adorable tile garments, dainty as the fondest heart could wish, at prices sure to be consistent with her budget. The materinte re quite as eloquent as those of richer weave, and the colours as dainty. All the subtle.... ties of the "model" garments are freely adopted,-and-she-can-delight in an accurate copy of some great

From China and Japan come the gar ments typical of the East--the Man darin couts, the Hoari coats and the kimonos. If it is possible there shoqla be one of theke "in "overy" troussena, for, contrary to the general opinion there is a comparatively wide choice of short and long; dainty and practical.

The Mandarin cists are excellent re

productions. of fine antique garments, and the lovely colourings, including much of the familiar Chiness blue, are

accented with black and gold. It l possible "for a price to obtain a génuine Mandarin cont, but there in no reason why one should not enjoy a reproduction quite as wall,

The Bouri ont is worn by the Japanese wonian on the street'over har gorgeous house garment and is made of marvellous silks, quite plain, but The kimonos with very luxurious, which we are mare farmiliar--are not- able for their embroideries in high relief, and they are exquisitely done in the rich tones that women of the Orient love to blend into a picture. The Mah Jong craze has revived interest in both Chinese and Japanese art, although the game belongs to the former, so it is quite possible to kiafy the craving for n negligen of Oriental inspiration in many different ways.