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PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE

Reference :-

TTIC.O. 882

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PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE, LONDON

ALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE BE REPRODUCED PHOTOGRAPHIC- COPYRIGHT PHOTOGRAPH-NOT TO

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In responding to the toast of my health proposed by the Judge and Taotai Yang, I availed myself of the presence at the dinner of so many influential Chinese in- terested in commerce to point out to them the great benefits that China had received from the planting of the British flag in the neighbourhood of China, quoting as instances the Colonies of the Straits Settlements and Hong Kong, which have really become Chinese Colonies under the British flag, as most of the trade and the property in either Colony are in the hands of Chinese. I expressed a hope that the example of these two Colonies would encourage the Chinese to aid in the commercial develop- ment of Wei-hai-wei, the prosperity of which could not fail to be beneficial to the Province of Shantung in particular and to China in general.

On Saturday, the 2nd of May, we called on the Catholic Bishop Giesen, a Dutchman by birth, who has recently been transferred from the Province of Honan as Bishop of the Franciscan Order. The Province of Shantung is divided by the Catholics into three vicariates-the eastern with its headquarters at Chefoo where Bishop Césaire resides the northern with its headquarters at Chinan: the southern with its headquarters at Yen chou Fu under Bishop Anser. The eastern and northern vicariates are worked by the Franciscan Order: the southern by the Ger- man Catholics. The buildings of the Catholic Mission at Chinan are extensive, but the mission did not appear to be so active as that in the south under Bishop Anser, who has just erected a large building for schools and residences, and a very fine cathedral.

At Chinan we also met several American missionaries who occupy an excellent site just within the city walls. Dr. Neale has a hospital for males under his care which is used much by the Chinese, and Dr. Burnham, a lady doctor, is superin- tendent of a hospital for females. Both Dr. Neale and Dr. Burnham told me that their services are frequently availed of by leading officials and private residents at Chinan.

I was very much struck by the excellent relations which seem to exist between the missionaries and the officials. I met both the Catholic Bishops at the banquets given in our honour, and Dr. Neale informed me that he was attending both the Governor and the Treasurer, the two highest officials in the Province. It also seemed to me that the missionaries whom I met are generally more cultured than those in the south of China.

On the evening of the 2nd of May we were entertained by Mr. Lange, who represents German interests at Chinan. On his card which he left me he is described as Kaiserlich Deutscher Consul iV., and he undoubtedly acts as, and is treated by. the Chinese as if he were a consul, though he has never been officially recognised as such, and does not appear to be entitled to any official status. There can be no doubt that his presence at Chinan gives the Germans an advantage over other countries which have no representative at the capital.

On the 3rd of May the Governor arranged an expedition for us to the "Thousand Budda Hill," which rises from the plain of Chinan, and from which a magnificent view of that city and the surrounding country is obtained. Everything possible

had been arranged by the Prefect and the Magistrate to make our visit to this interesting locality a pleasant one. The ascent is usually made in chairs of a special kind, which are also used, when ascending T'ai Shan, one of the sacred hills of China, which we visited later on. There are a number of temples built on the hill,

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the most frequented being one containing an idol which is supposed to possess powers of conferring male offspring on those desirous of obtaining such a possession. tried my luck with the "Joss," and came away with a robust looking male doll or "Wa Wa." I was told in all seriousness that I was certain to become the proud father of a son, but as I have just had born to me a daughter, I do not place any reliance on the idol on the hill, to which thousands of pilgrims flock every year.

The plain of Chinan is one of the most historical in China, having been the scene of many of the most famous battles in the early history of China, between the various states into which the country was divided during the feudal system.

We dined quietly with the Governor after our return from the hill, and he entertained us with a graphic description of one of those ancient battles, which was fought in the near neighbourhood of Chinan.

He also gave us some interesting reminiscences of the Taiping Rebellion in which he took part, having been at that time the Secretary of Li Hung Chang, who was his senior by fourteen years. He expressed great admiration for Gordon under whom he served when the "Ever Victorious Army" saved China.

He expressed

On Monday, the 4th of May, the Governor called again to see me. his approval of the Mackay Treaty, but is doubtful if it will receive the support of France and Germany. He referred to a telegram which he had seen stating that England does not want to divide China, and that he believes in the sincerity of her intentions, but that other countries only agree because they are afraid that, if a division were made, their share in the spoil would not be as much as they wish. He also mentioned the telegram declaring that England did not wish the Empress Dowager to retire, and said that it was significant that no other Power had sent a similar message. As to reform in China, he said that the Emperor was in favour of the reforms proposed by K'ang Yu-wei, but that the latter wanted to carry out changes too rapidly and had to be checked by the Empress Dowager, who had thus saved China from much trouble. He inquired whether K'ang Yu-wei could be handed back to China if an undertaking were given that he would not be killed, and whether it was true that K'ang was supported by the British Government. interested in reading the poems which the leading officials had composed and sent He was much to me in honour of my visit, and promised to compose one himself.

After the Governor had departed, I called on the merchants of the city and expressed a hope that they would extend their commercial transactions to Wei-hai- wei, where they would receive every encouragement. In the evening we dined with Taotai Pân, and the Judge and Salt Commissioner, though not specially invited, appeared at the feast in order, as they said, to show their friendship to me.

On Tuesday, the 5th of May, we made preparations for our journey to the home of Confucius. I felt that I could not leave Chinan without writing to the Governor to thank him for the great kindness and hospitality that we had received during our stay in the capital. I accordingly addressed to him a letter of which a copy is attached.

Before leaving our quarters, where we had spent such a happy time, I assembled all those who had so cheerfully assisted to make our visit pleasant and thanked them for their unvarying kindness.

We then proceeded through the city to the south gate, where we were met by the Governor and all the leading officials who had assembled to say good-bye. The Governor drank to the good health of myself and party, wishing us a pleasant, journey and expressing a hope that the friendship between us will be continued in generations to come.

After bidding farewell to the Governor and the other officials assembled, we set out on our journey. After passing through the south gate of the city I was saluted with 13 guns, the road being lined with 1,500 troops.

From Chinan to Ch'u Fou, the home of Confucius, a distance of 385 li, or about 128 miles, we found riding the most convenient and expeditious mode of travelling, our baggage and followers being conveyed in twelve carts. party there were four deputies, Mr. Lo and Mr. Chao, who had met us at Yang Chiao In addition to our own Kou, and Mr. I and Mr. Ch'ien, a troop of cavalry and eight mounted attendants detached by the Governor to escort us through the Province.

The roads traversed were unmetalled cart tracks, very dusty in the dry weather and muddy after rain.

The carts are built very strongly, but have no springs. When the roads are very rough travelling in them is not comfortable, as one of our party experienced, for the rolling of the cart made him actually ill at a place where the road was exceptionally had. The carts are drawn by ponies, mules, donkeys, bullocks, or cows. One team I saw consisted of a mule, a pony, a donkey, and a cow with its calf.

Carts travel between three and four miles an hour. Our average daily progress throughout was about 26 miles a day.

Preparations had been made all along our route to provide us with suitable quarters for lunching at mid-day and for sleeping at night. We had, of course, our own commissariat, but at every night's halt it was always supplemented by a Chinese dinner, generously provided by the magistrate of the district through which we happened to be passing. Our followers generally consumed the Chinese feast, and our servants showed no signs of loss of weight at the end of our journey.

Enclosure

3 (p. 27).

Enclosure

In the attached valuable Intelligence Report.* prepared by Captain Barnes of 4 the Chinese Regiment for the War Office, details of the various places through which we passed are given, and also other information of interest. The places are Enclosure marked on the accompanying sketch mapt of our journey.

• Not printed.

↑ Not reproduced.

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